Culture Tuesday: Explore Hong Kong Cuisine with Christine Wong

In this special Culture Tuesday edition, author Christine Wong shares a fascinating and in-depth exploration of Hong Kong Cuisine, inspired by her latest cookbook, The Vibrant Hong Kong Table.

Hong Kong Cuisine: A City That Not Only Never Sleeps, It Always Eats!

Hong Kong is renowned for its neon lights, bustling streets, and incredible food—from high-end banquet restaurants to humble and ever popular street foods. This is a city that not only never sleeps, it always eats! From early morning dim sum to lunchtime rice boxes to afternoon tea to dinner, there’s also the fifth meal of the day “siu yeh” 宵夜, a late dinner/early morning meal that is enjoyed any time between the hours of 9pm to 6am. 

With over 17,500 licensed restaurants, Hong Kong offers a wide variety of cuisine, predominantly Cantonese, with regional Chinese, Southeast Asian, South Asian, European, and the city’s distinct East-meets-West cuisine, or Soy Sauce Western, was born out of colonization. Aside from dedicated Buddhist vegetarian restaurants, dishes tend to be very meat- and seafood-centric.

“I wanted to create the dishes with a sustainable, plant-based twist to show that one can savor the same meals while being culturally appropriate and equally nostalgic.”

I wrote The Vibrant Hong Kong Table (Chronicle Books, Sept 2024) not only as an homage to the city that has been home to my family for four generations and all its iconic foods, but I wanted to create the dishes with a sustainable, plant-based twist to show that one can savor the same meals while being culturally appropriate and equally nostalgic.

The History of Hong Kong’s Unique Soy Sauce Western Cuisine

Once a sleepy, small port city that relied on fishing, Hong Kong Island was ceded to the United Kingdom in 1842 at the end of the first Opium War. Immigrants and merchants from China and around the world came to Hong Kong seeking opportunities and a new life, until the Japanese occupation during World War II that brought the city to a standstill.

The British regained control and in the 1950s, and a large influx of mainland Chinese and expatriate immigrants relocated to escape the civil war, quadrupling the population to 2.5 million within a decade! Hong Kong quickly evolved into an industrial city and factory owners and entrepreneurs amassed great wealth, widening the income gap from the low-waged factory workers and laborers. 

Unlicensed mobile street food hawkers and open-air food stalls burgeoned both as a means to make easy money, and to also meet the need for serving cheap meals and a variety of snacks to this growing local working-class population, Some official licenses were issued to some street food hawkers, aka dai pai dong 大牌檔.

In its heyday, there were over three thousand of these open-air eateries in the city, but because these licenses stopped being issued in the 70s and the transfer of them is only available to a spouse, not to an owner’s children, only a few dozen of these original establishments remain in Hong Kong today. 

In the 1950s, Hongkongers were enamored with Western foods, like cakes and tea with milk. However, restaurants serving these luxury foreign foods were expensive and mainly accessible only to the expatriate (expat) community, not to the majority of the local population.

As a result, Chinese diners called bing suut 冰室 or “ice cafes” and cha chaan teng 茶餐廳, “tea restaurant” became popular in the early twentieth century as a place to enjoy Chinese adaptations of “luxury” Western teas, coffee, and pastries, substituting expensive ingredients with affordable shelf-stable canned goods. 

Ingredients from the city’s bustling trade and food influences from migrant communities were integrated into a predominantly Cantonese palate, forging the city’s unique culinary landscape that is now Hong Kong’s heart and soul.

Hong Kong’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List

Ask a Hongkonger what foods come to mind that are distinct to the city and you will get a plethora of answers ranging from dim sum to wonton noodles to curry fish balls and more! There are three foods that are officially recognized as an intrinsic part of Hong Kong’s cultural heritage:

• HERBAL TEA 涼茶 is a strong, bitter brew of dried flowers, roots and leaves and is known for providing curative balance and harmony in the body. For example, after overindulging in yang (hot energy) foods like spicy and deep-fried foods, a “cooling tea” will help to counterbalance the “yeet hei” (internal heat). Some of Hong Kong’s most popular brews are the 24 Herbs Tea or Ya Sei Mei 廿四味 and Five Flower Tea or Ng Fa Cha 五花茶 

• HK MILK TEA 奶茶 (aka Pantyhose Tea 絲襪奶茶) can be found almost everywhere in Hong Kong. Making it is an art, and every restaurant has its own unique blend of leaves and technique. Tea leaves are first steeped and then strained or “pulled” anywhere from four to eight times through a long, reusable cloth tea strainer bag. The strainer becomes tan in color due to repeated use, hence its resemblance to pantyhose. Filtering the tea so many times makes it smooth and enhances the flavor of the tea which is complemented with shelf-stable condensed milk and evaporated milk. 

• POON CHOI 盆菜 is a unique dish that has existed for more than seven hundred years. Originating in Wai Tsuen, a walled village in the New Territories, legend says that this village harbored an emperor who fled to Hong Kong from the  Mongolian invasion. The villagers cooked the best foods using local ingredients to honor and feed the emperor and his army. Not having enough serving plates, all the dishes were collectively  layered and served in large wooden basins with the most prized ingredients on the top. Today, Poon Choi is enjoyed throughout the city during birthdays, Lunar New Year, and festivals to symbolize teamwork and unity.

Pantry Staples In Hong Kong Cuisine

Rice is what brings any meal together in Hong Kong and in many cultures around the world. population! With over 40,000 varieties of rice grown everywhere in the world, these are two types of rice that are most commonly used, as well as a flour derivative of the grain.

• JASMINE RICE is a fragrant long-grain rice that is popular in Hong Kong and Cantonese cuisine. The grains don’t stick together when cooked, making a perfect fried rice. They also break down easily when slowly boiled with an ample amount of water to make Congee 粥, a savory rice porridge which is a quintessential breakfast!

• GLUTINOUS RICE, also known as sweet rice, is an opaque short-grain rice that becomes sticky and chewy when cooked. One of the most popular uses is to wrap the rice in bamboo leaves to make Joong 糭, aka Dragon Boat Festival Parcels. Both savory and sweet versions are available, some have the addition of lye water which lends to translucent yellow hue and adds more springiness to the rice.

• RICE FLOUR is a fine powder that is made from finely grinding rice grains. It’s an essential ingredient for making rice noodle rolls as well as Turnip Cake 蘿蔔糕, a savory dim sum favorite! The daikon is first boiled, then mixed with a rice flour batter, steamed, cooled to set, then cut into slabs, and pan-fried for a crisp golden crust that compliments the dense, chewy cake. 

Soybeans are said to have existed two thousand years ago in China. It is a versatile ingredient and protein replacement, and it comes in many different forms – after soaking soybeans, one can make soy milk, tofu skin, and tofu (all textures, ranging from silken to extra firm.) 

• TOFU SKIN, also known as beancurd skin, or yuba, is the layer of skin or film that forms on the surface of simmering soy milk. It’s used to wrap some dim sum, and is a good textural ingredient with a chewy bite to add to dishes like Buddha’s Delight 羅漢齋 which is the most common vegetarian option available in most Chinese restaurants. This dish is also traditionally served on the first day of Lunar New Year to welcome in good luck.

• Steamed Egg 蒸水蛋 or “water egg” is the ultimate home-cooked comfort food. It’s a smooth, savory custard steamed in a heatproof dish and served straight to the table with a drizzle of soy sauce and scallions. This vegan version is equally silky and easy to make.

• FERMENTED BEAN CURD, also known as tofu “cheese,” is packed with flavor—a little goes a very long way in a dish, so use each cube, or a small portion of a cube, sparingly. Stinky Tofu 臭豆腐 is tofu that has been fermented in a brine made with fermented bean curd, then is deep-fried, and tossed with aromatics. While the taste is mild, the smell can be overwhelming (stinky) when it’s cooking, especially in the hot, humid summer! It’s one of those street foods that you can detect by smell before actually seeing the hawker stand. Not all stinky tofu is vegan; some brines are made with shrimp paste or fermented milk.

About the Author, Christine Wong

Christine Wong is an author, plant-based cook, and advocate for eco-friendly choices who blends cultural representation with culinary expertise. Her most recent book, The Vibrant Hong Kong Table (Chronicle Books, Sept 2024), reimagines 88 iconic dishes, preserving the rich cultural tapestry of Hong Kong.

Christine’s impactful works include Living Without Plastic (Artisan, 2020), co-authored with Plastic Oceans International, and The Plantiful Plate (Countryman Press, 2019), showcasing versatile, plant-forward recipes. Through collaborations with major brands and features in renowned publications, Christine shares recipes and tips, promoting health and sustainability.

An active member of NYC’s Chinatown community, she celebrates Asian American culture on various platforms, embodying the belief that food is a vibrant blend of culture, nostalgia, and sustainable living. Find her on Instagram @conscious_cooking.

About The Cookbook: The Vibrant Hong Kong Table

Introducing The Vibrant Hong Kong Table, a culinary journey through the streets of Hong Kong’s bustling metropolis, bringing you 88 iconic dishes with a modern, plant-based twist! Whether you’re a seasoned vegan, a curious foodie, or simply love Hong Kong, this cookbook is the perfect harmony of tradition, creativity, and nourishment, painting a kaleidoscope of flavors that pay homage to the heart and soul of this ever-inspiring city!

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